TAIPEI (Taiwan News) — Villages along the Shuang River in northeastern Taiwan have witnessed the evolving history of the region, intertwined with ever-changing modes of transportation.
Nestled in the northeastern corner, Gongliao District is often known for its yearly music festival on Fulong Beach. However, visitors can easily discover the region’s rich history by simply going upstream from the mouth of the Shuang River.
Tung Hsing Temple sits right next to Fulong Harbor, facing both the river’s mouth and Fulong Beach. Taiwan Ecotourism Association honorary chair Kuo Chen-meng (郭城孟) noted the river’s ever-changing sand spit fluctuates in size whenever the balance between the river's current and northwest monsoons shifts.
Kuo pointed out that when the monsoon overpowers the river, the sand spit grows, potentially sealing off the river. He also noted that the Shuang River used to be an important route for river transport.
Longmen Village, a fishing village seldom visited these days, was once the hub of that commerce. Wu Han-en (吳函恩), founder of touring firm Dawn Cafe Culture Studio and a native of Longmen, shared the rich history of the former commerce center.
At the heart of Longmen is Chao Hui Temple. Wu said the original temple was built more than 200 years ago in a different part of the village but was later relocated to the top of a hill overlooking the area.
Villagers carrying palanquins during religious festivals would often rest at the hill’s base before ascending, as the road is quite steep.
Wu pointed out that some houses down the road from the temple have histories not readily visible. Cement tanks now used as gardens once held eels, and a significant number of eel fry sold to farmers came from the area.
Fishers in Longmen still brave the sea under the cover of darkness between November and February, relying mainly on manual labor, dragging nets by hand along river mouths.
Further down the road, Wu led visitors to an old well next to the road, once used to supply merchant ships. The well belongs to the Wu family, whose traditional Sanheyuan-style house is built next to the river to support their trading business.
Wu said the large stones used to build the house may indicate the family’s affluent status, though she is not related to this Wu family. The Wu house is on the periphery of present-day Longmen, so returning to the village center involves climbing a hill.
Wu stopped midway to point out distant hills lacking green cover. Kuo noted that the peculiar-looking rocks at the hill’s base, used in local construction, are compressed sand whose structures have not yet hardened into sandstone.
Later, Wu showed a house built with these porous rocks, which provide excellent ventilation but allow heat, cold, and small critters to pass through. She explained that such rocks are typically used for pigsties and warehouses, and only less affluent locals build houses from them.
On the way back to Chao Hui Temple, Wu pointed out several houses bearing the history of the local community. The temple’s original site has become a park. An old grocery store, once serving fishermen during eel fry season, now sits closed.
Across the street, houses rebuilt after a major earthquake stand. Weekly vendors now supply the village, but visit less frequently as the population ages and shrinks.
Traveling further upstream along the Shuang River, the group arrived at Gongliao, where local guide Huang Chun-ying (黃春英) runs Monghoho Barn, promoting produce such as rice from nearby terrace fields.
Gongliao Old Street was once an important hub along the ancient Tamsui-Kavalan Trails, connecting present-day New Taipei City and Yilan County. Gongliao’s rise led to Longmen’s decline as the coastal transit hub to Yilan.
As a key transit point, Gongliao Old Street once had numerous shops, including a coffin shop, serving locals and travelers. However, when the railway came to Gongliao, Gongliao Old Street began to decline.
Huang guided visitors through the winding streets where houses are gradually reclaimed by nature. Former theaters stand as ruins, but life continues for locals.
Huang pointed out vendors selling homegrown vegetables to tourists and weekend visitors. A local vendor pointed out that the slenderness of the locally grown yam is due to soil characteristics, making it difficult and laborious to harvest and process. However, he noted that the yam’s sweetness and crunchiness make the effort worthwhile.
Along the Fang Chiao River, which flows into the Shuang, locals still wash clothes and utensils in the streams and sometimes leave bento scraps for fish and other creatures.
Close to the bridge connecting to the railway, Monghoho Barn connects local farmers with buyers in western Taiwan. The establishment also serves as a venue for environmental education, local produce, crafts, and artworks.
Not far away, U Pudding Cafe (雨布丁) sits at one end of Gongliao Old Street. Its name, echoing “constant rain,” captures Gongliao’s monsoon climate. The cafe welcomes visitors with local produce and coffee.
Returning to the coast, elderly Haenyeo Chen Yueh-yun (陳月雲) continued the time-honored tradition of the region, selling seaweed jelly made from harvested jellyweed in her shop. Unlike Japanese or Korean Haenyeo who dive deep, Taiwanese Haenyeo scavenge in intertidal zones, though they wear goggles.
Chen said she entered the business at age 10 due to limited opportunities. She then pointed out the arduous process seaweeds need to go through before being turned into jelly.
Three jellyweed species are used: Gelidium amansii, Gelidium japonicum, and Pterocladiella capillacea. Chen noted that Gelidium amansii produces the most tender jelly, though with less gel output than Gelidium japonicum. The latter two yield firmer jelly and are less preferred.
The jelly has a gelatinous texture with a subtle shrimp-like taste. Some people add vinegar to reduce the sea flavor, but Chen does not. She recalled having a partner who once kept watch of the tides.
Chen no longer ventures into the ocean as often as she once did, but she continues to carry on Gongliao’s tradition. Whether it is her homemade goggles or the refreshing bottles of seaweed jelly she sells, the legacy lives on.
